Poor Cordoba. Too often it’s simply tacked on as a day trip from Seville, or left off the Andalusian itinerary altogether. But for that reason alone it’s well worth a visit – with less tourists around, you’ll have the winding white-washed streets and gorgeous tumbledown squares to yourself. And for the gourmand, eating in Cordoba is a treat: the food is fabulous and the prices are reasonable. Plus, this southern sleepy town – once the largest and most splendid city in the world – is home to two delicious cornerstones of Spanish cuisine: bulls’ tail stew and salmorejo (a thicker, creamier version of gazpacho).
So, let’s go on with it. Below is our roundup of the best restaurants in Cordoba!
Where to Eat in Cordoba
El Potrillo Español: It’ll be you and a handful of boisterous locals in this rustic little tavern run by one-man-band Argimiro. Get a plate of jamón, perhaps some local cheese and throw in an order of grilled garlicky mushrooms… of course, your welcoming host Argimiro will be doing all the cooking.
Calle Lucano, 19
Salmorejería Umami: Everyone knows gazpacho, one of Spain’s great gifts to world cuisine (as well as raw food junkies everywhere). Salmorejo is gazpacho’s lesser-known cousin: it’s thicker (on account of having more bread blended in) and the other ingredients are tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and sherry vinegar. Salmorejería Umami does the classic version, but also whips up seasonal varieties with a weird, palate-bending blend of ingredients… think chocolate, peas, anchovies, avocado (not all in the same salmorejo, though!). They also do other, non-salmorejo plates.
Calle Blanco Belmonte, 6
Bodegas Guzman: As Spanish sherry is quickly becoming the drink du jour in New York and London’s trendiest bars, Cordoba’s own fortified wine – Montilla-Moriles – is still rather unknown. Sip glasses of the stuff straight from the barrel in this old-timers bar where locals hunker down over strong wine and simple food. And even if you don’t order food, this bar is a great spot to sip and ruminate on where to eat in Cordoba that night.
Calle de los Judíos, 7
Garum 2.1: With its bright and breezy bistro style atmosphere, Garum 2.1 turns out inventive version of Cordoban classics. The salmorejo with sherry and the bull tail stew are excellent. They even do a bull tail churro, if you’re feeling post-modern.
Calle San Fernando, 120-122
Gastrotaberna Macsura: A modern restaurant and bar serving tasty local food. If they’re on the menu when you go, try the coquillas (small clams) and ortiguillas (sea anemones) here. They have an outside terrace.
Calle Cardenal Gonzalez, no number
El Tercio Viejo: While wandering in the tumbledown north-eastern part of the old town, we stumbled across this tiny bar with a buzzing terrace. And we noticed the locals were drinking tall tumblers full of… snails. Yes, snails are a classic Cordoban dish! They’re served in a glass that’s filled with a minty, slightly spicy broth – you eat the snail meat with a toothpick and round off the meal drinking the broth. Not for the unadventurous…
Calle Enrique Redel, 19
Restaurante La Boca: The food is pretty good (not the best in Cordoba), but this place is worth it for their delicious vermouth cocktail, best drunk in the gorgeous patio out the back.
Calle San Fernando, 39
Regadera: If you’ve only got a day (or an afternoon) and you’re wondering where to eat in Cordoba: Regadera should be high on your list. The menu mixes tradition with innovation, and everything has a light, modern touch. Delicious.
Cruz del Rastro, 2
Choco: Feel like a Michelin experience, but put off by the prices? Choco – the brain-child of Cordoban chef Kisko García – offers reasonably-priced and highly-inventive tasting menus, wine included. It’s a little out of the old centre, but being one of the best restaurants in Cordoba, it’s well worth the hike (and the taxi fare).
Calle Compositor Serrano Lucena, 14
Got any tips on where to eat in Cordoba? Let us know in the comments section below!
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Enchanted by the country’s exhilarating culture and cuisine, James has written about Spain for international publications, including the Guardian and the UK Sunday Times. He hosts a popular YouTube channel about Spain, and has appeared on the BBC and British Channel 4. A wine lover, he is WSET Level 3 certified.